How to size down a ring
Traditionally, to size a ring (for example: sizing down from a size 7 to a size 5) would involve the following steps:
- The jeweler determines the ring’s current size using a ring sizing tool called the mandrel.The mandrel tells the jeweler how large a piece of metal to cut from the ring’s shank, to achieve the customer’s finger size.
- Using a fine saw blade, the jeweler cuts through the shank to remove the cutout piece. See Figure 1.
Figure 1 – Removed gold piece to size down.
- The jeweler forms the ring shank to the new smaller ring size. The jeweler laser welds to fill the adjoining seams. The resized ring will not show any sign of a soldered seam.
- Finally, the jeweler polishes any remaining tool marks. See Figure 2
Figure 2 – The ring before sizing (left, size 7), and after sizing (right, size 5) using the cut & weld sizing method.
The advantages of the cut & weld sizing method are:
- The resized ring maintains its original look.
- The resized ring maintains its original comfort fit.
- Faster and cheaper resizing fee.
- Excessive resizing of the ring can reduce the overall structural integrity of the ring shank over time.
- The customer cannot adjust the ring at home after sizing while the spring sizing method can allow some adjustment.
- This method does not help to stabilize the ring to the upright position on the finger.
- Some customers with a large finger knuckle experience their ring rotating from its upright position, even when the ring is sized correctly to the customer’s preferred ring size.
An alternative (non-destructive) sizing method is to laser weld a custom spring bar inside the shank. This method enables the jeweler to size the ring down without cutting out any metal from the original shank, see Figure 3.
Figure 3 – The ring before sizing (left, size 7), and after sizing (right, size 5) using the custom spring bar sizing method.
The advantages to this spring bar method are:
- It works best for clients with a large finger knuckle.
- The tension of the spring bar against the bottom of the finger minimizes ring rotation and keeps the center stone upright.
- The customer can adjust the ring based on their fitting preference or seasonal swelling.